Personally Renegade, it is the best RPG I've played in a while - and that includes the much lauded Dragon Age Origins. I started with a short answer, but ended with a full blown review so I hope you'll forgive me
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I think the problem reviewers are having with Final Fantasy is that they want it to be everything for everyone. Final Fantasy has such a big name that people tend to be a bit unrealistic when they evaluate it. For example, one major complaint I have heard is that it is too linear. The interesting thing to me is that Final Fantasy has always been linear - even the first ones. Sure, there comes a point in all the games where you get a ship or something and can roam around doing what you want for a bit - but the story elements are pretty fixed. On the other hand, recent western RPGs like Dragon Age Origins and Elder Scrolls: Oblivion have tried to take the opposite approach where you are free to do as you like in the world and the story follows you.
Which is better? For me it depends on the mood I'm in. Final Fantasy XIII so far plays a lot like an interactive movie. The creators are telling you a story. Right now, that is actually the type of game I was looking for. To be frank, many of the other more western RPGs have started to feel a bit more like the "Choose your own adventure" books from the 80s. The stories are sometimes a bit contrived because they have to fit your actions, and the characters end up being a bit shallow. Don't get me wrong - there are some that do very well with stories and characters. But many recently have just not felt right. With Final Fantasy XIII, you don't get to choose your story. But on the flip side, the story seems more self consistent to me because of that.
For actual gameplay:
I like the combat system for the most part. I am generally more a fan of the turn based system like Final Fantasy VII used, and at least so far I haven't been able to find that ultimate piece of equipment or summon that can utterly destroy your opponent for a price - but the sysetm is well done. It gives you enough control to make you feel like you are involved in the fighting, without making you take care of so many little details that you feel overwhelmed. I have heard a few complaints that this makes it too easy - and I must admit that it is not the most difficult game. In my case though, I am playing for fun, not to be an uber bad ass gamer, and the combat system is fun for me.
I think the summons could have been done a bit better. I know they don't want to give you a game breaker. However, when you are using something you only get to use every 10ish fights I expect it to make a massive difference. Instead, you really kinda have to micro-manage the timing and actions of the summon to make any difference at all.
The leveling system is a bit simplistic for me right now - mainly because I've never been forced to choose. I end up filling out my entire level tree long before the end of each level - so right now I basically just have to remember to open up the screen and hold down x every now and again. I would have liked the choices I made to be more meaningful. On the flip side, it is impossible to get broken characters like were the norm in Elder Scrolls: Oblivion. I remember having a spreadsheet that I had to update every time I wanted to spend a point so my character wouldn't end up useless by level 50 there. Here, I'm pretty sure my characters will always be good. Basically, far more "World of Warcraft" than "Elder Scrolls: Oblivion".
Equipment upgrading turns out to be your main character development. You don't need to do it to get through anything I've done so far, but it can make the game easier.
Unlike that reviewer, I actually like the story. This isn't your typical fantasy novel though - think more a mystery. You start out with several pieces of information and do get a lot thrown at you at once. Then pieces reveal themselves one by one. I do have to say that nothing actually surprised me to this point - I've expected the developments that have happened. If I had one complaint, it is that the story is a bit too ambitious. They try to fill in the backstory for all 6 of the main characters, so there is a lot of switching back and forth between them. This style has become more popular in fantasy books lately as well, and I have never liked it. It seems just when you really start to care about what is happening to one character you jump to the next. For me, I played through large chunks at a time though so this was tolerable.
The graphics and sounds are really well done. I particularly like the music. I recently played through Bayonetta. There is a song in that game that I really liked the first time I heard it. By the end of the game, I dreaded going into a fight because I knew the same song would be playing. That has not been an issue so far with Final Fantasy. The music really is background music - but it is well done and helps set the mood of the game well. It is just really well done, and something I think other games could take lessons from. The graphics are pretty stunning. But at the same time, they have never made me stop and say "Well, you can tell that was thrown in there as eye candy". Things seem to mesh together really well.
If I had to give number scores out of 10 to each category they would probably be something like:
Graphics/Music: 9
Character Developement: 4
Combat System: 7
General Gameplay: 7
Story: 7
Overall: 8
The game is not perfect, but when I say it is the best I've played in a while that rests generally on the shoulders of one question. I always ask myself "Am I having enough fun that I look forward to playing the game when I get a chance?". With Final Fantasy, the answer is a resounding yes - so to me the game is a real success. Too many games lately I've felt like I'm forcing myself through so I can meet someone elses standard for a gamer. Maybe I'm just getting old and like things to be a bit more relaxing than hardcore - but so far, Final Fantasy has been great.
Keep in mind your milage may vary. If you thought character development was done right in Elder Scrolls: Oblivion for instance, you will probably find this game frustratingly easy. On the other hand, if you find advancement in World of Warcraft hard, you are going to hate the upgrade system. Most of us will probably fall somewhere in the middle. If you get the game and go in with the expectation that it is just a fun game you will probably enjoy it. If you are expecting a genre altering mind blowing experience, this probably isn't the game for you.