Best HDMI 2.1 4K+ HDR TV for Consoles [2022]

[orangpelupa]

Is the screen saver set to "sleep" the display or display black? If it's "sleep" does windows and the display have any sort of "hdmi-cec' enabled? I think it should be able to come back on its own but maybe more is needed?

And if that didn't solve it but plugging in a dummy hdmi plug solved it, then it probably anti-miner bug. The one that supposedly to refuse to work or gimp performance when it's used headless.

Me and few others in GeForce forums got hit by it. It comes and goes almost every driver update.

 

[Cyan]

So I got my C2 last night and boy is this a whole new experience! Truly experiencing 4k HDR for the first time in my home is just wonderful, the color, true black and brightness spectrum is just amazing. Yes I'm many many years behind but didn't want to get a cheapo set.

I currently have everything going through my Nvidia Shield 2019, which is working great. Apart from Kodi which unfortunately doesn't work with DV profiles yet with source files in MKV, but HDR10 fallback works fine. New version of Kodi coming with support for DV within MKV containers. Netflix, Prime, Paramount etc. all working great with DV and HDR10 support at 4k. Tried a few shows/movies I've watched recently and it's amazing even on a normal contemporary show the difference it makes in color spectrum. It's really going to be hard to go back from this, now I want HDR for my PC monitor.

Also have my PC connected to it from my 3090 via a 24' fiber optic HDMI 2.1 cable at 4k120Hz, and that is working very well, mostly. It's nice to be able to drag YouTube windows to the TV and have them display full HDR (since Shield YouTube won't ever support VP9 and thus can't do HDR). I've been playing with Cyberpunk 2077 in 4K RT HDR (wow!), which switches perfectly between displays. A few other titles work great switching displays, however for example Little Nightmares II switches ok, but you can't select a 4k resolution, it takes the resolutions from the main display only. You have to set the TV to the "Main display" in Windows then launch LMII before it will do 4k properly.

congrats on your new superb quality TV. That's one of the best regarded TVs to date, afaik. It might take a while as you say, but since you waited, you certainly got something that is worthy of your living room, or bedroom or whatever.

As of recently I got a 4K TV too, 120Hz and all, and I can't be happier. I am covered, monitors wise, so I decided to take the plunge and I don't see myself returning to monitors for a long while. TVs just usually have better IQ. The sound of the TV is darn good I don't need external speakers, it's mostly all advantages.

Enjoy, and share your impressions in games and so on.

 

[Malo]

Is the screen saver set to "sleep" the display or display black? If it's "sleep" does windows and the display have any sort of "hdmi-cec' enabled? I think it should be able to come back on its own but maybe more is needed?

It's the standard power setting for windows to send the monitor into its sleep state. The TV isn't on at all for any of this but it's connected of course so it knows it's there. I'm not aware of any kind of CEC control in windows, there's nothing in the BIOS either.

When I tap my keyboard to wake it up, you can see the backlight come on the monitor, but it's a blank screen. Turning on the TV, windows makes its disconnect/connect sounds as if a device is detached/reattached and the PC screen comes on. I then turn off the TV immediately and everything is fine.

This is very frustrating in an otherwise almost flawless setup for being able to play my games on the big TV. The couch for the TV is even next to my PC so I'm able to use my wired controller on the couch directly from the PC and switch my audio to the TV easily.

 

[Malo]

Also RDR2 at 4k HDR w/DLSS Quality and VRR+Reflex on the 120Hz TV is really really nice.

 

[Silent_Buddha]

It's the standard power setting for windows to send the monitor into its sleep state. The TV isn't on at all for any of this but it's connected of course so it knows it's there. I'm not aware of any kind of CEC control in windows, there's nothing in the BIOS either.

When I tap my keyboard to wake it up, you can see the backlight come on the monitor, but it's a blank screen. Turning on the TV, windows makes its disconnect/connect sounds as if a device is detached/reattached and the PC screen comes on. I then turn off the TV immediately and everything is fine.

This is very frustrating in an otherwise almost flawless setup for being able to play my games on the big TV. The couch for the TV is even next to my PC so I'm able to use my wired controller on the couch directly from the PC and switch my audio to the TV easily.

Windows now requires the display to basically constantly let it know it's there in a sleep or standby state otherwise it'll temporarily forget it's there and then reconnect and reinitialize the display. Not all TVs have this. My CX has this in the higher power sleep state, but not in the lower power standby (basically off as it only maintains enough power for the remote control to bring it out of standby) state. The TV will automatically go into standby after X amount of time (I never timed it) in sleep state. My other LG TV from 2019 also does this, it's aggravating at times.

In Windows 10 (still haven't moved my main PC to 11), this causes all kinds of unfortunate things to happen if the TV doesn't have this capability. Such as the PC randomly deciding which display is the right or left display depending on which display it connects to first. This can be solved by ensuring that both monitors have been brought out of standby before starting up Windows. Alternatively you can manually turn them on in the order you want them recognized, but that doesn't solve the related issue of all desktop icons and menu bar being shoved onto the first display that Windows detects and all open windows being shoved onto that display as well. Both of that is annoying when you have things arranged how you like it prior to putting the PC to sleep.

There's also the annoying side effect of Windows 10 being unable to bring the TVs out of standby mode. I have no idea if Windows 11 can do this or not.

That's why I have enabled the Windows screensaver and have it set to display a black screen versus putting the displays to sleep. That's fine for the OLED display as that's almost as low power as sleep mode. Overnight I'll manually put the PC into sleep mode and then turn off the displays (put them into standby) and then try to make sure I remember to turn both displays on before waking the PC.

Yeah, it's a bit of a hassle even if it's a minor inconvenience. I could also get an HDMI passthrough that will maintain the correct signals to the PC while any connected displays are in sleep and/or standby, but it's difficult to find ones rated to properly handle 4k/60 and even more difficult to find any that can handle 4k/120. I'd still have to manually bring the TVs out of standby mode (off), but at least display position and orientation and desktop composition (windows, icons, etc.) would be preserved if I forgot to turn the displays on before waking the PC.

Regards,
SB

 

[Malo]

I might try having it set the monitor to blank instead of standby, see if that helps thanks.

Weird application interaction as well. If I minimize Spotify window, which is just floating at a specific size on my PC ultrawide, when I restore it the window size is massive, like it thinks it was on the 4k TV or something.

 

[orangpelupa]

I might try having it set the monitor to blank instead of standby, see if that helps thanks.

Weird application interaction as well. If I minimize Spotify window, which is just floating at a specific size on my PC ultrawide, when I restore it the window size is massive, like it thinks it was on the 4k TV or something.

Welcome to the beauty of windows scaling. Been like that since 8 IIRC.

sometimes it just do weird stuff.

And using Spotify from windows store also won't make it absolutely bug free as the windows store version is actually win32 version too

 

[BRiT]

Thread for 2023, graciously created by Silent_Buddha:

Best HDMI 2.1 4K+ HDR TV for Consoles [2023]

A new year ... a new thread? Here's a link to the previous thread if anyone needs it. https://forum.beyond3d.com/threads/best-hdmi-2-1-4k-hdr-tv-for-consoles-2022.62693/page-16 Just thought of this as I recently heard about the LG G3. https://www.pocket-lint.com/lg-g3-oled-evo-review/ It's...

forum.beyond3d.com

 

[wco81]

So this is OLED technology but not attractive OLED TVs.

The latest approach catching attention comes from the startup Displace. Its upcoming TVs will use integrated webcams and NFC payment readers to make it easy for people to buy stuff they see on TV.

Wireless TVs use built-in cameras, NFC readers to sell you stuff you see on TV

TV makers are getting more aggressive about using their hardware for ads.

arstechnica.com

This startup will demo their products at CES and take preorders.

Basically it will use AI to detect products for sale and present them as something the viewer can purchase. The viewers are being surveilled all the time by built-in webcams, which will detect gestures and if it thinks the viewer has signaled interest, it will present buy options, which they can do using their phones and the NFC sensors built into the TVs.

What will this version of dystopia cost?

Well a 55-inch OLED will be $5999. And the 27-inch OLED TV will be $2499.

That's right, you will pay MORE for these TVs which are designed to monetize TV ads and transactions. No they won't be subsidized. No word on what kind of OLED panels or what kind of HDR support if any.

 

[Nisaaru]

BTW, if somebody looks for an improvement for the sound with their Oled.

My Pioneer AVR died some time ago and I used the C1's headphone port for my Beyerdynamic Amiron which "worked" until lately. While playing with the builtin speakers I felt seriously disabled so I looked for a real solution.

I decided against a new AVR and got a SMSL DO400 DAC/Headphone AMP for my 250Ohm Amiron a few days ago after sifting through all kinds of cheaper but less ideal DAC/HP products.

The uplift in the absolutely clean soundstage was *huge* even to my past AVR experience. I seriously didn't expect this as I hadn't put much thought into headphone outputs and considered normal amp outputs good enough. No noise background whatsoever.

So if you actually care for the sound(you should) and are in a similar situation(quality headphone) I highly suggest this product.

 

[wco81]

I got the Sonos Beam 2nd generation sound bar for my bedroom OLED.

There were times when the TV speakers just wouldn't be loud enough to hear all of the dialog.

So the Beam was on sale, $100 off at $400, kid of steep but it had small footprint and had Dolby Atmos support.

It can for sure crank up the volume more than before. But the sound is more dispersed.

I guess I'd have to do some A/B tests but in theory it would do a better job with content which has multi-channel soundtracks.

But it's the bedroom and it's a sound bar so really what kind of expectations can you have?

Using eARC instead of upgrading my AVR now, since support for full 48 Gbps HDMI 2.1 ports is spotty.

 

[Davros]

I decided against a new AVR and got a SMSL DO400 DAC/Headphone AMP

Alternatively Creative labs have a range of headphone amps that support headphones up to 600 Ohms, and have Holophonic encoding (dont know if it's the original aka Zucarelli Labs holophonics) Super X-Fi range. Comes with an app where you scan you head and ears creative then create a profile for you that you upload into the amp (at least I think thats how it works).

Super X-Fi Personalized Audio Holography Products - Creative Labs (UK)

Shop online at the Creative Store (UK). Earn member’s points and enjoy free shipping on orders £79 and above!

uk.creative.com