iceberg187
Regular
FYI, Rare created the engine that this game runs on, it is revision 1 of this engine.
Movement of the car body has nothing to do with the mass of the wheels. Maybe a stupidly heavy wheel would launch the car upwards when it hit a bump, but for incoherent high frequency motions it doesn't matter. Do some simple calculations. When the spring constant and damping coefficient are chosen to control the mass of the car, the f=ma term from the wheel is very small compared to the other forces (especially the damping). 30Hz is very far from the resonant frequency, so you shouldn't see a lot of car motion unless it's got really stiff shock absorbers.Wheels that are moving 5-6 inches in 1/60th of a second (this is the frame-to-frame motion I'm measuring) while the car body remains well-composed certainly should look wrong to people. Either the wheels are massless and are thus always in perfect contact with every bump, or the damped spring motion simulation is using a simple linear integrator that gets railed with the large force impulses when hitting bumps at speed.
FYI, Rare created the engine that this game runs on, it is revision 1 of this engine.
al·lu·sion /əˈluʒən/ –noun 1.a passing or casual reference; an incidental mention of something, either directly or by implication: an allusion to Shakespeare.
In this case the relevant bit would be mentioning something by implication. The interviewer didn't say that Forza 2 was "the real Grand Tourismo Killer" outright, but his question made the implication that it was. Hence my (proper) use of the word "allusion".
I'm sure this is fascinating to everyone reading this thread looking for Forza 2 discussion.
I don't know what to tell you other than it met my expectations. Graphics could clearly be better. I have some issues with some of the UI layout in terms of some things not being directly accessible when you need them and you instead have to bounce between 2 different areas. There could always be more cars and more tracks, of course. But these negative points, while valid and important, are totally overshadowed for me by all that was done well.
My point is, overall the game is good but nothing more than an update. Hopefully PGR4 will be more ambitious in its scope.
Forza 2 comes to market fermenting with dated play styles and mechanics.
Exactly, 'casual reference'. Which this wasnt . Anyway, you're getting boring.
My point is, overall the game is good but nothing more than an update. Hopefully PGR4 will be more ambitious in its scope.
What's getting boring is this horse shit about F2 not being a sequel, derailing the thread for the last week...to be honest.
Movement of the car body has nothing to do with the mass of the wheels. Maybe a stupidly heavy wheel would launch the car upwards when it hit a bump, but for incoherent high frequency motions it doesn't matter. Do some simple calculations. When the spring constant and damping coefficient are chosen to control the mass of the car, the f=ma term from the wheel is very small compared to the other forces (especially the damping). 30Hz is very far from the resonant frequency, so you shouldn't see a lot of car motion unless it's got really stiff shock absorbers.
Even if they simply did raycasting for the wheel position (I actually did that in a little game I made), the reaction of the car's body shouldn't matter much. You still take the position/velocity of the wheel to figure out the reaction force on the body.
Unsprung mass would only affect the instantaneous contact of the tire with the ground, and even then the average contact force (and thus video-game perceptible roadholding) would be the same.
Finally, I don't see the complete lack of body movement that you are. Here's a video, for example, that shows movement of the car when it goes over the curbing and grass.
What utter bullshit!
What the hell do you mean by, "...play styles and mechanics."? Forza Motorsport is a racing simulator, meaning all on track gameplay is meant to be a close approximation to real life. Just because Forza 2 is on the Xbox 360 does not mean the core racing elements are going to change as the laws of physics have not changed in between console generations.
the magic lap time you're looking for on tsukuba is 1 minute, a car that brakes the minute out there is what one can call a "good race car"
for reference, irl, regular sport honda cars (civic type R, integra type R, S2k), stock, run that circuit around 1'05" to 1'07", spoon/mugen versions tend to be between 1'00" and 1'05"
now ingame you should pick up a well balanced FR/MR car, not as good as the ferrari, with a good progression possibility, here are a few guesses:
- Mazda Rx7 (old or new)
- Mazda Rx8
- Honda S2000
- Lotus elise/exige (harder to tune IMO)
- honda NSX
personnaly I'd go with the old Rx7 cause I like the look of it and it's quite abit of a "cornering machine"
anyway, get some of that car, start with upgrading all you can in shocks, weight etc... maybe not slick tires you won't need it, you want a car that's easy to drive wich means not too powerfull. In FM1 only weight and tires would make you go up in category so manage to get chassis upgrade so you're around B2/B1, then upgrade engine so you stick to B1 at MAx (wich means in the new notation, right before you get in A category), leave the turbo alone for now.
drive the car on tsukuba until you get regular laps, preferably in a mode you can see a ghost car of your best lap that's a good reference to start tuning, if you're in front then your setup is better if not, go back (try and save every modification, I mean save your setup under "a" then next time you save it, save it under "b", once you sure b is better than a, then overwrite a, so you can allways go back).
first thing I do then is stiffen the anti roll bars a little, those will make your car more responsive (it's not necessary a good thing but I tend to modify both at the same time, trying to have the same "ratio" between both of them), if they're in the 1st tier, move the cursor up a bit, equally with both, try, if you don't move that too far it should be better, then move them up little by little (I do it usually by 2 to 5 "clics") once you feel it was better before, move them back. then you're ready to move to the next parameter.
the next parameter would be camber/toe/caster (in that order in the settings), that depending on how you car behaves in the corners.
for camber you want negative camber for your car to stick in the turns and not slide too much, you want control here (also keep in mind that 1 parameter will not give you the absolute control), if during a slide your front tires slide more, add negative camber (i.e. move the bar to your left) usually it's -0.5 stock I tend to leave that, same goes for the rear, personnaly I go between -0.7 to -1.2 depending on the car.
for toe it's really simple since it's an FR I'll try to describe it for you.
your chassis is not a piece of frozen wood, it moves and has deformation, try to imagine your rear wheels are stuck to the ground and have a vertical pivot from ground to top (vertical ^^) going through the center of each wheel (only talking bout rear wheels) so they're free to rotate around that pivot
[|]---[|] would be a "front view" the | being the said pivot
now from a top view we would have someting like this, when the car starts moving and the rear tires are stuck to the ground:
now in real live wheels are not stuck, but they have resistance to the movement so this will actually happen on a very small scale. if you want optimal grip, you want your wheels to be in a straight line when accelerating, so you have to put some negative angle here, I mean something really small, like -0.1 to -0.3. on a FR or MR car you don't want to put positive angle here, not at all, unless you want to drift. on FF cars having this one positive will help the rear to slide wich would be cool for cornering.
for front wheels it's abit different, basically having them pointing outwards will make you turn in easier, but will hurt abit of stability in a straight line, the car will follow the track imperfections much more. it's a matter of compromise here. I usually put a 0.2 to 0.3 angle here, 0.2 will do the job.
now caster is a magical thing, it'll increment your negative camber angle while you turn and decrement it when you're in straight, all good you might think, well not exactly.
actually most german autobahn cars have high caster angle, it helps for stability at high speed, but the problem with that, is that it'll make your car feeling abit "heavier". move that to the right a little bit if you want better turn in, but if you do that too much it wouldn't help, 3 to 5 "clics" are usually the way I go on that setup.
for advanced suspension setting, I can do it a little bit but I wouldn't be able to explain it very well, so try a few clics here and there (one parameter at a time, this is where tsukuba comes in handy so you only need 1 minute/1 lap to see how the modification goes) and see what happens, I tend to make rear (damn forgot the word in english, the 2 parameters on the top), "top parameter" a little bit harder (5 to 10 "clics) and then try out with the others, I cannot explain this so I'd rather not do it)
for the LSD, well this too depends very much on the car, try like 10 clics up, make a lap, 10 clics down, make a lap, see what happens.
at this point, you didn't touch ride height, this pretty much depends on the track, but "all the way down" will usually screw most of the work you did before, now it sure looks cool, but it's definately not the way to go, unless your track is a pure billiard table (silverstone maybe).
now the tire pressure, I got that from another post on this forum, and once the setup is all done I still manage to get a few seconds out of tire pressure, it's boring to do but really easy.
run a benchmark test/dyno, write down the lateral g's with stock setting, then move the cursors to get those numbers up, at first I move both cursors at the same time, and once I managed to get the top number, I try and move them independantly to usually increase these numbers a little more.
tuning a car is a matter of compromise, you will never find out the "perfect handling setup", it depends on the track, the car, the upgrades etc... but doing that I could manage to get quite decent hotlaps on several tracks (my favorite was one that's not anymore on FM2, downhill section).
last thing to keep in mind when you tune your car, if you're faster on the track, you might have to brake earlier, so to really see if a modification did some good, you might want to run more than one lap cause it might take a whole lap just to get used to the new modification, once you get used to tuning it'll go faster, but at first you'll have to give it some time.
normally in the tuning section you should have a "test drive" option, go there and you might be able to set your car up bringing up the pause menu and directly see the difference on the track.
for the gear ratio, it's simple, depending on the track you want to
- be at the max torque revving when starting to reaccelerate in 2nd gear out of the track's slowest corner
- be around the max power/max rev in the longest straight in the last gear
I hope it was comprehensive enough, I'm no engineer whatsoever, but I've been through a whole bunch of ressources to learn that for Forza 1, and I just saw the tuning menu was exactly the same, so what did work for me in Forza 1, might as well work in Forza 2.
very last thing if you want to see nice tsukuba very short (5 laps usually) races with street and tuner cars driven by top drivers, look on the internet for "best motoring" Japanese TV shows, those are hosted by keichi tsushiya (A.k.a "drift king" although I'm talking about races, not drift here). So you can have references for lap times corresponding to the exact type of cars you can have in Forza, passing lines, racing lines etc... last I've seen it was mine's skyline vs spoon s2k vs Re amemiya Rx7 etc... all those cars are in the game, so what they can do in the show, you can do it in the game. if you're into cars you will love this show. I'd recommend as well the special "Best Motoring: Drift bible" if you want to learn about how a car behaves at limits and how you can make the car doing special moves, it comes in handy even in grip racing, and it's really comprehensive
Well that sounds reasonable, and here's why:
Microsoft's franchise uses a pinch of ingenuity, with key ingredients being play mechanics popularized by contemporaries. It is a sound business strategy, provided it stays within the same hardware generation.
Once you have migrated, those old ingredients are less likely to have a savory affect. A newer generation brings different tastes and expectations, while the previous one is saturated with tradition.
Released before "chefs" have cooked up popular (new-gen) dishes, Forza 2 comes to market fermenting with dated play styles and mechanics. In the previous generation this sort of transformation would have been revolutionary, but in the current one it seems blasé simply because technological capability and consumer expectation is higher.
I agree, playing it at my friend's during the weekend. You could make the same argument against Motorstorm. I dont feel the playing style is particularly dated, more lacking any real sense of advancement. To be fair, its seems the physics have been developed slightly, perhaps the third in the series will be the game that is 'revolutionary'.
Errr... What? Source maybe?