I think Nvidia shot themselves in their own foot with the temperature target. They should have set it to 90 degrees and/or should have increased fan speed a bit and that would have provided 10-15% more performance in reviews and results would have been much more consistent.
The bigger problem is that if hardware.fr's findings are correct, it infact does give you high performance in short benchmarks, and only after few minutes it settles to that 80C, lowering performance at the same time
If I measure power in Anno after 30s I get 220W but the cooling system (including the way it is calibrated) is not able to maintain 80°C with such a power draw (unless the system is in the fridge of course). After 5 minutes power drops to 180W. If I add extra cooling around the board power goes up to 200W.
So you get nice high performance in the quick benchmark run, and soon after the performance drops