If you are going for a router then just ensure the router has it built in - AFAIK most do these days and they are effective enought for a home network.
Home Network
- Thread starter Joe DeFuria
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If you are going for a router then just ensure the router has it built in - AFAIK most do these days and they are effective enought for a home network.
Joe DeFuria said:
i had a linux router ("Server") some time ago and it wasnt hard to config it (and i havent really used any Unix thing before). i run a 1-Disk Linux distro (no file server or something, just a basic router/firewall). i think it was called Coyote linusx or something like this.
it even had a Windows App to conifg it
but i switched to a real router (i hated the noise of the PC and it took a minute or so to boot from the floppy
with a nice Web page to config it.Hey Joe,
Man, if I can run cabling, anybody can run cabling. I was doing it in 90 degree weather in an attic that covered 3 businesses. Not 2 stories, but it was one hell of a climb on the outside of the building to get up there.
I agree that if you can't put it inside the walls it's not worth it. I'm having reservations on using the phoneline networking though. It's only 10Mbit and if you ever decided you want a faster network then you have to chuck that router and start over from scratch anyway. I would definitely look into the wireless Ethernet first. Eventually I may do this for my dad's office or even at home.
As for your ports, if you think you'll need 10 then go ahead and plan for it now instead of later. We don't have a centralized server here at the office. We're just doing peer-to-peer networking. I wanted to go with a server, but my dad didn't want to because of the location of the router and location of the machine that would have most of our files. Plus, I hadn't figured out all the networking stuff anyway. So it was best just to leave it as it was.
Since you're thinking of going with 16-port hub or switch then, you would only need a 1-port router, which is what I did(BEFSR11). This could give the you ability to place the hub/switch somewhere other than where the cable modem is installed. However, Dave and Mfa seem to be much more enlightened on the networking than myself. So if they suggest going with a server then I would consider it, but I'm still not totally sure it's necessary.
The main reason being that the built-in firewall capabilities of your router should be sufficient. If not you can always install a software firewall for the ultimate in protection. Linksys offers a built-in firewall and a great web interface with their routers(BEFSR11, BEFSR41, BEFSRU31), but they also offer integration with ZoneAlarm Pro and PC-cillan for additional protection. I've never installed them, since it's an extra purchase. I believe Linksys is offering them at 50% off but, you still have purchase licenses in 2, 4 or 8-packs.
Anyway, hopefully my experiences will help. I know that I didn't have any to guide myself, but it was a worthwhile experience nonetheless. Give me a holler if you need any help once you start building it. I'm sure 2 heads are better than one.
Tommy McClain
Man, if I can run cabling, anybody can run cabling.
I was doing it in 90 degree weather in an attic that covered 3 businesses. Not 2 stories, but it was one hell of a climb on the outside of the building to get up there. I agree that if you can't put it inside the walls it's not worth it. I'm having reservations on using the phoneline networking though. It's only 10Mbit and if you ever decided you want a faster network then you have to chuck that router and start over from scratch anyway. I would definitely look into the wireless Ethernet first. Eventually I may do this for my dad's office or even at home.
As for your ports, if you think you'll need 10 then go ahead and plan for it now instead of later. We don't have a centralized server here at the office. We're just doing peer-to-peer networking. I wanted to go with a server, but my dad didn't want to because of the location of the router and location of the machine that would have most of our files. Plus, I hadn't figured out all the networking stuff anyway. So it was best just to leave it as it was.
Since you're thinking of going with 16-port hub or switch then, you would only need a 1-port router, which is what I did(BEFSR11). This could give the you ability to place the hub/switch somewhere other than where the cable modem is installed. However, Dave and Mfa seem to be much more enlightened on the networking than myself. So if they suggest going with a server then I would consider it, but I'm still not totally sure it's necessary.
The main reason being that the built-in firewall capabilities of your router should be sufficient. If not you can always install a software firewall for the ultimate in protection. Linksys offers a built-in firewall and a great web interface with their routers(BEFSR11, BEFSR41, BEFSRU31), but they also offer integration with ZoneAlarm Pro and PC-cillan for additional protection. I've never installed them, since it's an extra purchase. I believe Linksys is offering them at 50% off but, you still have purchase licenses in 2, 4 or 8-packs.
Anyway, hopefully my experiences will help. I know that I didn't have any to guide myself, but it was a worthwhile experience nonetheless.
Give me a holler if you need any help once you start building it. I'm sure 2 heads are better than one. Tommy McClain
See this link: http://www.firewallguide.com/hardware.htm
Hope it helps.
Hope it helps.
Joe DeFuria
Legend
Thanks for the advice and info Tommy...and the link Pascal!
It looks like Tommy's recommended Linksys BEFSR11 would be the best buy for me. About $60, and the 4 port version has gotten great reviews. (No one seems to review the one port version.) I'd like VPN passthrough (and this router seems to support it based on reviews), since I'd like to be able to hook up my work lap-top (which uses VPN) to connect to the office network.
However, one thing that baffles me a bit is whether this router is not only a NAT firewall, but also SPI. Every review lists is as NAT only, though the docs and faq indicate that "does stateful packet inspection." Not that it really matters, because a NAT firewall should be sufficient for my home...
It looks like Tommy's recommended Linksys BEFSR11 would be the best buy for me. About $60, and the 4 port version has gotten great reviews. (No one seems to review the one port version.) I'd like VPN passthrough (and this router seems to support it based on reviews), since I'd like to be able to hook up my work lap-top (which uses VPN) to connect to the office network.
However, one thing that baffles me a bit is whether this router is not only a NAT firewall, but also SPI. Every review lists is as NAT only, though the docs and faq indicate that "does stateful packet inspection." Not that it really matters, because a NAT firewall should be sufficient for my home...
Joe DeFuria said:
No problem. Hate for you to go through networking hell needlessly.
Joe DeFuria said:
I've always thought VPN was cool when it was first announced a couple of years ago. It showed great promise then and seems it to have lived up to it. Sad though that to get VPN support in the Linksys Cable/DSL router requires and extra $80 bucks. I would definitely make sure that your company has or will allow you to install VPN on their network. If they don't, then there is no sense in buying the VPN version.
Joe DeFuria said:
I have no clue.
Haven't read much on firewalls. It would probably be a good idea. Time to check out the firewall link that Pascal provided. Thanks Pascal. Let me know what you end up doing with the home network. It will be interesting to see how it comes out.
Tommy McClain
If you like linksys then see BEFSX41: http://www.linksys.com/products/product.asp?prid=433&grid=23
$88 with S&H (pricewatch).
$88 with S&H (pricewatch).
Joe DeFuria
Legend
Well, I don't actually need a router with a VPN "end-point". And end-point is required if I want VPN access to my own network from somewhere outside.
My office at work is a VPN end-point. In other words, they have VPN "server" software installed, and we all have VPN client software installed on out lap-tops. We dial-in to the office network over VPN (or over a boardband cable connection), and have a "virtal private network" over the internet to the office.
Almost all(?) routers (VPN end point or not) should allow at least one VPN client to access a VPN end-point. That is, I should be able to connect my lap-top to my home network, have it go through the firewall/router, and successfully connect to the VPN end-point at the office.
The differences between routers tend to lie in the number of VPN "pass-through" connections allowed at once, and how well the pass-through actually works. I only need one VPN passthrough, and the reviews I've read indicate that the Linksys pass-through works without any hitches.
So in short, I don't need the more expensive VPN Endpoint model. Just the plain ol 1-port router should work. (BEFSR11).
Whatever I do, I probably won't be "installing" the network until this fall / winter. That's a good "indoors" project, and besides, we haven't bought the second computer yet. Always good to get the prliminary research done though!
My office at work is a VPN end-point. In other words, they have VPN "server" software installed, and we all have VPN client software installed on out lap-tops. We dial-in to the office network over VPN (or over a boardband cable connection), and have a "virtal private network" over the internet to the office.
Almost all(?) routers (VPN end point or not) should allow at least one VPN client to access a VPN end-point. That is, I should be able to connect my lap-top to my home network, have it go through the firewall/router, and successfully connect to the VPN end-point at the office.
The differences between routers tend to lie in the number of VPN "pass-through" connections allowed at once, and how well the pass-through actually works. I only need one VPN passthrough, and the reviews I've read indicate that the Linksys pass-through works without any hitches.
So in short, I don't need the more expensive VPN Endpoint model.
Just the plain ol 1-port router should work. (BEFSR11).Whatever I do, I probably won't be "installing" the network until this fall / winter. That's a good "indoors" project, and besides, we haven't bought the second computer yet.
Always good to get the prliminary research done though!Joe DeFuria said:Well, I don't actually need a router with a VPN "end-point". And end-point is required if I want VPN access to my own network from somewhere outside.
My office at work is a VPN end-point. In other words, they have VPN "server" software installed, and we all have VPN client software installed on out lap-tops. We dial-in to the office network over VPN (or over a boardband cable connection), and have a "virtal private network" over the internet to the office.
Almost all(?) routers (VPN end point or not) should allow at least one VPN client to access a VPN end-point. That is, I should be able to connect my lap-top to my home network, have it go through the firewall/router, and successfully connect to the VPN end-point at the office.
The differences between routers tend to lie in the number of VPN "pass-through" connections allowed at once, and how well the pass-through actually works. I only need one VPN passthrough, and the reviews I've read indicate that the Linksys pass-through works without any hitches.
So in short, I don't need the more expensive VPN Endpoint model.
Whatever I do, I probably won't be "installing" the network until this fall / winter. That's a good "indoors" project, and besides, we haven't bought the second computer yet.
Ahhhhh, I see now. Thanks for the little lesson on VPN routers.
As for the wiring, you can definitely say it's a fall or winter job. One other thing that I think you might want to do is find a much better way of crimping the Ethernet connectors. My biggest gripe has been sometimes I don't get all the wires in far enough inside the connector to touch the contacts. So sometimes it takes 5-10 minutes of shoving those wires into the connectors before I think they are far enough. Also a good line/wire tester might be something you may want to check into. I think they're pretty expensive. So borrow somebody else's if you can. Tommy McClain
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