Is this power supply enough?

Rebooter

Newcomer
Would my current power supply:

Enermax EG465P-VE Power Supply (431 Watts)
+3.3V = 38A
+5V = 44A
+12V = 20A

be enough for this configuration?:

MSI K8T Neo2-F & Athlon64 3200+
Two 512MB PC3200
2 80GB 7200 RPM Hard Drives
1 120 GB 7200 RPM Hard Drive
1 DVD Burner
1 3.5" Diskette Drive
2-3 case fans
Radeon 9800
Audigy 2
 
You should be less concerned about just the wattage and be more concerned about your 12v rail. The majority of the components in modern systems draw a good deal of their juice from the 12v rail. 20A is what I would consider transitional, or rather the absolute bare minimum of what I would put into a machine like that. A lot of power supplies are still being made with older components and previous generations in mind. 13A, 15A, etc. on the 12v rail isn't going to cut it (you can probably get away with it, but there's no telling what will happen). You can try your Enermax, and I'm sure it'll run fine, but I'd go for the peace of mind and get a more robust supply.

I myself have a 500 watt Aspire PSU. It's got lots of power and some real heft to it (which is also one good indicator of an adequate supply).

The ratings are:

3.3v = 28A
5v = 30A
12v = 34A

It can be had for $50-$60 depending where you buy it.
 
If you're worried, simply multimeter the rails and see how much your voltage fluctuates. My Enermax (I think it's the same model as yours) is within 3-5% so it's fine for what I'm using.
 
I notice from the chart from the posted link above, it shows that many components get power from combined rails. I'm looking at the specs for the Aspire and some others and I see that while the +12V rail is higher, the others are lower than what I currently have. It shows that AGP draws from the 3.3V, and drives draw from a combination of +5V and +12V and memory drawing from +3.3V.

The ones I'm looking at have specs such as:
+3.3V = 28A
+5V = 30A
+12V = 34A

where my current one has:
+3.3V = 38A
+5V = 44A
+12V = 20A

So while the +12V is better on the newer ones, would I get less stability from RAM and AGP?

I'm mostly worried due to having the three 7200RPM hard drives. But are the newer PS's just redistributing the power to where it's needed more, so I would still get good stability from memory and AGP?
 
Well, I decided not to risk it and ordered an Enermax EG475P-VE SFMA 470W. It got good reviews, is supposed to be quiet and has some nice features. Got it for $81 shipped.
 
Why are you wasting money replacing your PSU in the first place? I constantly run MORE than what you have on a 250W supply...

Most PC components really DON'T draw that much power, so this obsession with wattage in most people is just a silly waste of money in some bizarre virtual penis-size competition. ;)

The bigger your supply, the bigger the power waste is likely to be too, I might add.
 
It's not just about the wattage, it's about how the power is distributed among the rails and how stable it is. I'd take a 400W of good quality over a 600W of low quality any day.

I'm concerned that an Athlon64 might not get enough from my current PS under high stress leading to instability. I've had this before and it's not much fun with crashes and errors.

I waded through I don't know how many PS listings where they were 400W-500W, but with otherwise dismal specs. This one looks to be designed to provide power where it's needed on the newer CPU's/motherboards.
 
Guden Oden said:
Why are you wasting money replacing your PSU in the first place? I constantly run MORE than what you have on a 250W supply...

Most PC components really DON'T draw that much power, so this obsession with wattage in most people is just a silly waste of money in some bizarre virtual penis-size competition. ;)
Exactly my thoughts, it's surprising how little power you need even when you fill your PC with lots and lots of stuff - I could run my PC (Northwood @ 3.6 GHz, 1 GB of DDR400, 4-disk RAID-5 array, DVD and CD burner, RAID card, ISDN card, an Audigy2 and a total of 7 case fans) on a 350W-rated PSU with just 17A on the +12V line, even when I put a 6800 Ultra in there.

Simply put, Rebooter, you got more than enough already from your old PSU, but hey, if a stronger, newer one puts your mind at ease, it might be a placebo worth its price. ;)

cu

incurable
 
Ok, you convinced me. I cancelled the order. I'll give my current Enermax a try with the new setup.

It's confusing trying to make a decision when there are so many opposing opinions. :?
 
Just so you feel even more comfortable here's my rig:

MSI K8N Neo2-P
A64 3500+
2x256 Corsair Twinx 3200LL
3x hard drives (300 SATA, 60, 20 PATA)
1 Plextor burner
9700 Pro
Zip drive
Audigy (1)
floppy
5 case fans

Atec PP412, "400W" Power supply (12V = 18A)
Seems stable to me with MBM showing 12.01 volts constantly.
 
It sounds like your current PSU is up to the task Rebooter. I wouldn't sweat it. :)
I don't agree with Guden though. Having the extra power (provided it isn't some inflated spec) is always good. Better to have a reserve than not enough IMO. One of my buddies had a psu go out on him (it was overloaded ), and it took the rest of the system with it. Cheaping out on a component that can make/break your system doesn't make much sense to me especially when they really aren't that expensive. :?
 
Ok, I might still be getting this PS because I'm going to be getting another case and transferring my video and audio cards from my old system to the new one, then using older video/audio cards in the old machine.

One thing I read in a review of this PS concerns me:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article149-page1.html

Interestingly, the operational temperature is given as 0~40°C. This is much stronger than what is specified for most Enermax PSU models:

"0 ~25ºC for full rating of load, decrease to 80% rating of load at 40ºC; decrease to zero Watts O/P at 70ºCC"

If the unit can really deliver 470W at 40°C, it is a very powerful power supply.

But then later in the review:

3. POWER OUTPUT: The unit had no trouble at all in the test environment, and ran with great stability at all the lower output levels. Even at 400W output, it ran for a full 5 minutes without any sign of overheating or overload.

After about 3.5 minutes at 470W, however, protection circuitry kicked in and the unit simply shut down. The fans stayed running at least 3 mninutes after the PSU had shut down, as advertised. In this case, this feature seemed like a good thing. After the fans stopped, I reduced the load and turned the power switch off and on. It came right back on without any problems, and no apparent damage.

It is not clear why the unit shut down. There are several protective features that can shut this PSU down:

* Over Voltage Protection - unlikely; none of the output voltages were misbehaving
* Over Load Protection - unlikely; the load was exactly at maximum
* Over Current Protection - maybe: very clear limits are specified, and in setting the load for 470W, I may have exceeded the limit on one of the voltage lines.
* Over Temperature Protection - possible: 40°C is the specified maximum operating temperature, and the case temperature was recorded at 39°C, with exhaust at 44°C. How one defines or where one measures the temperature becomes very difficult. If the Over Temperature Protection function shut the unit down, it is very probable that the operating temperature (as Enermax defines it) was exceeded. As it is so unlikely for any system to reach steady 470W output for any length of time, never mind 3.5 minutes, I have no quibble with the shutdown. It is a very extreme and unrealistic test. In fact, I am pleased that the protection circuitry worked well.

The part about the 'Over Temperature Protection': my current system temp runs at about 39c to 40c at idle. I've tried all kinds of things to reduce it, but nothing has ever worked, but it has been this way for a long time with no problems. I'm not sure what kind of temps I'll get with the new case, but if it is high like this, does anyone think I will have problems with this PS shutting down due to high temp?
 
The case design can make a significant difference in your temps. Getting an ArcticCooler for your video card can drop your temps by quite a bit as well.

There's a couple interesting articles over here on ways to drop case temps:

http://www.overclockers.com/tips1193/
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1186/
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1187/

If you look @ the design of the Apple G5's they use some of the same principles as well. They are compartmentalized, and use air directors (so there are no dead spots in the case).
http://www.apple.com/powermac/design.html

I"ve been designing a new case for myself which will use some of these principles. I may even finish it up one of these days. :?

I'm also stealing an idea from the Dell's XPS systems, and plan on running a 1U PSU to conserve space and isolate the rest of the systems thermals.
http://www1.us.dell.com/content/pro...p;~ck=mn&~page=3&~tab=viewstab#tabtop
 
Rebooter said:
my current system temp runs at about 39c to 40c at idle. I've tried all kinds of things to reduce it, but nothing has ever worked, but it has been this way for a long time with no problems. I'm not sure what kind of temps I'll get with the new case, but if it is high like this, does anyone think I will have problems with this PS shutting down due to high temp?

What system temp are you talking about? There's no way for you to detect the temp of the PSU except to measure it manually with the apropriate tools. What you see is probably the temp of your CPU or such, not what the PSU has. You also won't succeed to make it much lower unless you freeze (literally) your whole case ;)
 
Those mobo temp probes are notoriously unreliable, if it sits in a dead-spot for airflow and/or next to a hot component it will give false high readings.
 
Back
Top