Anyone knowledgeable on car tires?

The guy at Discount Tire is correct; irregularly sized tires will put additional stress on differentials, to include the transfer case which serves as the "center differential" in a modern AWD system. Let's use a more simple example to help explain: imagine a car which only drives with one axle (EG front wheel or rear wheel drive only.) On that single axle, if one tire is slightly smaller than the other, that smaller tire will rotate faster creating a twisting stress within the axle as they fight eachother. This leads to faster tire wear because it causes one tire to "scrub" against the driving surface, and it may not always be the same tire which is forced to scrub.

In older cars with solid (rear wheel drive) axles the twisting force wasn't much of a deal because, as the name implies, the solid rear axle is relatively impervious to the twisting force. However, nearly all modern cars do not employ solid axles, instead they utilize CV joints and often also employ more complex differentials for better power distribution. Unfortunately, all of these additional moving parts within the CVs and differentials present additional points of weakness, and having an axle continuously under undulating twisting stress can prematurely wear these parts. Of course, tires do individual wear at dissimilar rates because of weight distribution of the car, uneven geometry of driving surfaces, and even tractive changes in the driving surface. A little bit of dissimilar sizing will always happen, but it is in your (financial) best interest to keep the gap from widening.

This whole problem is amplified more than 2x in an AWD system. Not only do you have to worry about the tires on each axle fighting eachother, you also have to worry about the tires on different axles also causing the same undue twisting force upon eachother. If the rear axle is moving faster than the front axle, that same scrubbing action has to be transmitted through the transfer case. A poorly maintained set of tires on an AWD system can chew up a set of tires very quickly and, if left unchecked for a long time, can cause severe wear of the transfer case.

This is why it's very important to rotate tires on a regular basis, and to avoid the temptation to install more than one type and size of tire on a single axle or on either axle of an AWD car.

As for the wheels, the bolt pattern is only one part. Make sure they use the same center hub size, ensure the same hub centricity, and same offset as the wheels as the manufacturer uses in their OE tires. You CAN use different offsets and hub centricity if you know what you're doing, but I wouldn't recommend it in the slightest for a one-off replacement.
 
Ok so I got my tire repaired and found out my other tire with a slow leak has a bent rim, aluminum cast so difficult to repair the guy at the tire shop said. They didn't charge me anything, but I'm running 2 different makes of tires on my front and rear on an awd vehicle which ain't really good for its transmission. (again, according to the guy at Discount Tires)

I started looking at steel rims and can get them in 17" or 16", I'm currently running on 18". If I drop down to a skinnier 16" rim what would I be looking for in height? The ratio number of rim to tire thickness thingy. I'm currently running 245/45 on my 18", what would I need for a 16" that is 6.5" wide? 65? 75? A set of steelies and some really good snow tires are now a very realistic option that would give me time to consider my new wheel options for summer.

Appreciate all the help and thanks in advance for any advice. No rush, I got a reliable auto again but she ain't optimal yet so the quest continues.

EDITED BITS: This is what I found very late at night when I was very baked, so I'm not at all sure why or how I decided on them. The bolt pattern is correct at least.

View attachment 10222

And using their visualizer:

View attachment 10223

I believe the diameter of your stock tires should be around 26.7".

Here's a tire calculator you can play around with.


It has handy columns on the side to see 1 rim size down and up to 2 rim sizes up. So, putting in 245/45 R18, you'd be looking at something like a 225/55 R17 in a 17" rim. Being off by a 1-3 tenths of an inch isn't that big a deal, your speedometer will just be ever so slightly off. You can see it shades the recommended tire replacements. You can go narrower to get better mileage and lower rolling resistance and slightly better traction in snow, but don't go "too" narrow or the car might get a bit squirrely. If your starting point is is xxx/45 I probably wouldn't go much beyond say xxx/60 or maybe xxx/65.

You can repeat that to get to 16" rims by putting in one of the R17 tire values. For example, if you put in 225/55 R17. When picking a tire through keep in mind the tire width of your stock tires and not necessarly the tire width of an interim tire (like when checking for 16" rims). 225/60 R16 would be reasonable. On the other hand, while 155/90 R16 might give you great gas mileage, it's not going to be terribly safe for your vehicle.

And finally, if a tire is a non-standard (IE - not a stock size for many vehicles) it may not save you much if any money. So, you can play around with various sizes to find one that's a fairly common tire size which will offer the largest savings.

And remember, these will compromise the sporty performance of your car on dry pavement. So, drive like an old man even when there isn't snow or ice on the ground if you use this to get more affordable winter tires. :p

Regards,
SB
 
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