Newbie guess, maybe something like:What's the best way (room lighting, camera settings) to get a good shot of a plasma without blurring the screen? Obviously pausing a blu-ray works, but for SD I have no pause! I can say that its stretched mode doesn't bother me nearly as much as most.
Hmmm, interesting. I went from 40" Sony X series LCD to 50" Panna 600 series PDP early this year for main viewing. I've found the Panny far better with mgeg compression artifacts. LCDs, perhaps apart from Sony's 46", look decidedly average. Have you turned down contrast/brightness/saturation to <40% & color modes to normal? Also turn off all the post processing - although I do like one step of NR & sharpening on quasi-HD...I switched my 37" LCD for the Panny 50" plasma (the one Consumer's just gave "best ever" to) and wow. Watched The Fountain on Blue Ray and it was simply gorgeous. The downside is that compression effects in HDTV broadcasts seem more obvious (grass on the football field bounces between sharp and fuzzy at times).
ISO 200/400 should do nicely with medium room lighting. You could use exposure compensation if available. You should have a screen pause feature on the remote control. Source doesn't matter. Screen buffer memory keeps it displayed. You should be able to cycle 5-6 screen modes. I prefer 4:3 with black side bars. Turn screen protection on to max...Mize said:What's the best way (room lighting, camera settings) to get a good shot of a plasma without blurring the screen? Obviously pausing a blu-ray works, but for SD I have no pause! I can say that its stretched mode doesn't bother me nearly as much as most.
One quirk I've noticed on the Panny is that certain grey/offwhite/green gradients will purple fringe. The kids call it "purple snaking" apparently... I've even noticed it on the 700 series.
I'm curious as to why DLP doesn't have top marks in motion resolution. Maybe it has to do with deinterlacing on moving objects.
Wobulation can make motion look weird or jerky, but it shouldn't reduce resolution during motion. It simply displays half the pixels during one 1/120th of a second and the other half during the next 1/120th of a second.I'm going to guess that the rear projection DLP models tested used the wobulation technique. This causes latentcy because some of the mirrors draw 2 pixels. Front projector DLP's don't use wobulation at all. It's just a cost saving measure put into rear projection displays.
Arrrgggghhh! The purple snakes. That was a huge issue when I was looking to get a plasma earlier this year. There were huge threads covering the issue on avforums. One of the reasons I finally went for a Pioneer.
Well, it's blue on Pioneers. I've only noticed it twice: Once in Gears of War where there were some white-ish pillars that would have a blue contour when panning rapidly, the other was a test-DVD with white bars moving fast (50Hz) on a black background.
I'm guessing the blue phosfors decay slower than the red and green ones, I'm also guessing that the electronics compensate on normal images, and "undershoot" blue in a pixel if that pixel went full-out blue the previous field. That would explain why I've only seen it with white-on-black situations.
It has only been an issue with 50Hz content, I haven't seen it in movies.
Cheers
I thought it was green tinge on Gears of War? Or was that Panasonics as well?
There's a spectrum of severity of this issue. Thankfully mine's a good one. It's probably worst on West Wing broadcasts & pastel colored walls. Some people have striking artifacts. I decided on the Panny over the Pioneer based on price. I also figured I had the LCD if it didn't work out. So far I'm happy with the performance. The Pioneer is a bit smoother on gradients.Arrrgggghhh! The purple snakes. That was a huge issue when I was looking to get a plasma earlier this year. There were huge threads covering the issue on avforums. One of the reasons I finally went for a Pioneer.
Yep, but the issue is slightly different on Pioneer. It's more of a static fringing, whereas Panasonic looks like a fizzing/dithering artifact on contour transitions. It is very dependent on contrast/brightness settings. I can get my set to do it by reducing contrast to 0... The fix is an upgraded dcontrol board with PDROM x.03 or higher, but some upgrades are causing other problems, chiefly IQ reduction...Well, it's blue on Pioneers. I've only noticed it twice: Once in Gears of War where there were some white-ish pillars that would have a blue contour when panning rapidly, the other was a test-DVD with white bars moving fast (50Hz) on a black background.
I'm guessing the blue phosfors decay slower than the red and green ones, I'm also guessing that the electronics compensate on normal images, and "undershoot" blue in a pixel if that pixel went full-out blue the previous field. That would explain why I've only seen it with white-on-black situations.
Tends to be green tinge on Panasonic & blue or yellow on Pioneer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm3Px1EQUtsI thought it was green tinge on Gears of War? Or was that Panasonics as well?
There's a spectrum of severity of this issue. Thankfully mine's a good one. It's probably worst on West Wing broadcasts & pastel colored walls. Some people have striking artifacts. I decided on the Panny over the Pioneer based on price. I also figured I had the LCD if it didn't work out. So far I'm happy with the performance. The Pioneer is a bit smoother on gradients.
Tends to be green tinge on Panasonic & blue or yellow on Pioneer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tm3Px1EQUts