When you replaced it did you clean it off and put new thermal paste down?
Video card problem?
- Thread starter kruk
- Start date
{Sniping}Waste
Regular
Try reseting CMOS. There should be a clear/reset CMOS jumper on the mother board.
Yes, I did use a small amount of thermal paste after cleaning it with high purity isopropyl alcohol.
Ok, let's play point kruk to the CMOS jumper on the Albatron PX845PEV PRO board.
Ok, let's play point kruk to the CMOS jumper on the Albatron PX845PEV PRO board.
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{Sniping}Waste
Regular
Its the red jumper in the pic. Its 3 pins so the defaut is pin 1 and 2 shorted by the jumber so change it to pin 2 and 3 shorted for 5 seconds and move the jumper back to pin 1 and 2. This will cleat the CMOS setting to defauts.
And obviously you'd want to unplug the PSU from the MB and remove the CMOS battery before you do that.
Was there anything obviously wrong with the HSF? Was it not seated correctly or clogged with dust?
Worst comes to worst, I doubt a used version of your P4 will set you back much at all (I'd guess $30? I don't think I paid more than $50 for a used P4 1.6GHz a few years ago). Heck, you could probably get a faster one for not much more. This avoids the hassle of a new system (OS activation or new OS purchase, etc.).
Then again, if you have the money and the inclination, you might as well take the opportunity and use that $ to move to an A64 or even a Core2 PCI-Express system, though I wonder if it'd be worth it for just those games.
Was there anything obviously wrong with the HSF? Was it not seated correctly or clogged with dust?
Worst comes to worst, I doubt a used version of your P4 will set you back much at all (I'd guess $30? I don't think I paid more than $50 for a used P4 1.6GHz a few years ago). Heck, you could probably get a faster one for not much more. This avoids the hassle of a new system (OS activation or new OS purchase, etc.).
Then again, if you have the money and the inclination, you might as well take the opportunity and use that $ to move to an A64 or even a Core2 PCI-Express system, though I wonder if it'd be worth it for just those games.
HSF looked pretty clean, was tight before removal, and tight when fitted back on.
unplugged the psu from mb
removed battery
moved jumper
moved it back
replaced battery
plugged in psu to mb
Same result, but I am not positive I am doing this correctly.
At this point, I'm probably not going to spend any money unless I am certain it will fix the issue.
Thanks for all your help.
unplugged the psu from mb
removed battery
moved jumper
moved it back
replaced battery
plugged in psu to mb
Same result, but I am not positive I am doing this correctly.
At this point, I'm probably not going to spend any money unless I am certain it will fix the issue.
Thanks for all your help.
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{Sniping}Waste
Regular
Do you live near Dallas TX? If you do I can take a look at it.
Not even close, Pennsylvania.
If I had any tech buddies I would give it to them. I am the guru in my (local) circle, which is a joke.
Anyway. I plan on pulling the HD out (since I can't access it) and giving the rest away to a new home. I will send it to anyone here wants it, for the actual shipping charges. I expect that to be around 35 bucks or so. If there are any takers please PM me.I'm sure it would be easier to dump the beast in the trash but think offering it up is more noble.
I appreciate the good people here and there earnest effort to solve my problem.
I am going to solve the problem by dropping a few grand, and experiencing some new technology in all of its (gaming and graphic) glory. If anyone has chip/board/vidcard advice PM me. Best bang for the buck is my motto, but do want to consider expandibilty issues over the next few years.
Keep it real.
kruk
If I had any tech buddies I would give it to them. I am the guru in my (local) circle, which is a joke.
Anyway. I plan on pulling the HD out (since I can't access it) and giving the rest away to a new home. I will send it to anyone here wants it, for the actual shipping charges. I expect that to be around 35 bucks or so. If there are any takers please PM me.I'm sure it would be easier to dump the beast in the trash but think offering it up is more noble.
I appreciate the good people here and there earnest effort to solve my problem.
I am going to solve the problem by dropping a few grand, and experiencing some new technology in all of its (gaming and graphic) glory. If anyone has chip/board/vidcard advice PM me. Best bang for the buck is my motto, but do want to consider expandibilty issues over the next few years.
Keep it real.
kruk
A few grand sounds like a lot for just the tower (not including monitor, speakers, etc.), but my only advice WRT a Core 2 Duo system would be to go for an Intel or maybe ATI MB, just b/c they seem to draw a lot less power than NV MBs and don't seem much (if any) slower. Of course, if you want to go SLI, I think you'll need an NV MB, and in that case you're probably not concerned about power draw, anyway. But I'm into quiet, efficient systems (browse SPCR for lots of good advice on overall system noise, and specifically great PSU, HD, and fan reviews), and the extra power NV MBs seem to (and multi-card setups definitely) draw doesn't appeal to me. As for bang/buck, you can browse TechReport's (and the zillion other) Core 2 Duo review(s) to see how much return to expect for the higher-clocked C2Ds. IIRC, the 6300 is a nice entry point, and I guess you could always overclock the heck out of it in a few years when it starts to show its age. You can also check TR's MB reviews. There's also AnandTech, Xbit-Labs, etc., etc. BeHardware has particularly easy-to-read gaming benchmarks if you're considering a new PCIe video card, as well.
Feel free to post a new thread in the new purchase advice forum, if you want the benefit of more groupthink. Then again, this little pow-wow didn't seem to go so well, but I really didn't expect to make things worse. :\
I'm not sure what other advice to offer for your current system, nor why the system now appears inoperable, considering you appear to have taken all due precautions. (Heck, I still don't know why your CPU temp was so high with an apparently functioning HSF.) I troubleshooted, or at least remember following, a similar problem (overheating CPU). If I can dig up that thread, maybe it'll offer a clue before you ship your troubles away. Can't remember if it was here or Ars, though.
I'm guessing you don't get a video signal at all?
Another longshot: maybe the HSF fan has failed and the MB won't POST without a functioning CPU fan? Do you have another fan that'll plug into the CPU fan header, just to see if it boots?
Feel free to post a new thread in the new purchase advice forum, if you want the benefit of more groupthink. Then again, this little pow-wow didn't seem to go so well, but I really didn't expect to make things worse. :\
I'm not sure what other advice to offer for your current system, nor why the system now appears inoperable, considering you appear to have taken all due precautions. (Heck, I still don't know why your CPU temp was so high with an apparently functioning HSF.) I troubleshooted, or at least remember following, a similar problem (overheating CPU). If I can dig up that thread, maybe it'll offer a clue before you ship your troubles away. Can't remember if it was here or Ars, though.
I'm guessing you don't get a video signal at all?
Another longshot: maybe the HSF fan has failed and the MB won't POST without a functioning CPU fan? Do you have another fan that'll plug into the CPU fan header, just to see if it boots?
The HSF is working, the fan is running anyway, so I assume it is good. You are correct, no video signal at all. I might have a fan that will fit.
The pow-wow was good. I think I was pretty careful, but then again I wear combat boots and carry a hammer around
. As long as the HD has my data it's all good.
2000 was hopefully going to cover the monitor and speakers and I wasn't going to skimp on those components. I'll look at the resources you posted.
The pow-wow was good. I think I was pretty careful, but then again I wear combat boots and carry a hammer around
. As long as the HD has my data it's all good. 2000 was hopefully going to cover the monitor and speakers and I wasn't going to skimp on those components. I'll look at the resources you posted.
$2,000 should still be able to get you a new rig, monitor, and speakers of good quality...you're just gonna have to stretch your dollars for the best possible bang-for-the-buck.
We got a LOT of people here good at that, I'd start a thread in purchasing recommendations. Even if you don't use any of the advice it might at least give you some good ideas.
We got a LOT of people here good at that, I'd start a thread in purchasing recommendations. Even if you don't use any of the advice it might at least give you some good ideas.
Yeah, I think I spent almost as much as my monitor alone in my last big PC purchase, and it's definitely been worth it. But nowadays it seems you can get a decent 19" LCD for around $200 (IIRC, there was a Samsung advertised at that price), though I guess you'll want widescreen for movies and future games (plus, if it can rotate, you get the perfect layout for webpages). You might want to consider a monitor with HDCP if you're interested in HD content.
Apparently you are interested in speakers, too. I'll just say, price being equal, I'd prefer a more musical 2.0 set (like the Swan M200 mentioned frequently at Ars and that's occasionally in stock at NewEgg for ~$200) over a more forceful 2.1 set. I value a full midrange more than boomy bass. The only reason I have my Logitech 2.1 set (Z-2200) is b/c it was super cheap at the time, but it defaults to a pronounced high and low end, with not much in between: fun for games and action flicks, not so much for anything else. Plus, it matched the pretty unique "metallic bronze" color of my Antec case.
I dunno, I'd be surprised if you couldn't get a pretty kick-ass Core 2 Duo setup together for around $700 before the external inputs and outputs. I think a C2D 6300 is ~$200, a MB maybe $150, 2x1GB RAM ~$200, a _quality_ PSU and case ~$150. I think you can transfer your copy of Windows. That's $700.
Gah, I guess that's before a video card, so you can toss in something affordable like a ~$100 7600GT for basic use, or move up to a ~$200 X1950Pro or the like for higher res and more AA, or just go whole hog for a GF8800GTX. Personally, I'd wait until January (supposed NDA lift date) to see how R600 compares to G80. You can get by just fine with a relatively cheap 7600GS or GT, which you can then resell for probably not much loss to move up to the enthusiast-class $300+ GPUs.
And that's assuming you want the creamy smoothness and generally superior gaming performance of a C2D. A single-core A64 may suffice.
Even so, sounds like you could afford a 24" widescreen LCD and some decent speakers with a $2k budget, and you can assume the monitor and speakers and probably case and PSU will last for a few upgrades. Still, as power-efficient as they tend to be compared to CRTs (I'm on a low-power kick, considering I spend much less time gaming than browsing, typing, etc), I have no idea if they're suitable for gaming for picky types like me (even watching HDTV, there's a difference in clarity b/w LCDs and plasmas when the scene pans). Again, BeHardware has a lot of great LCD reviews.
Apparently you are interested in speakers, too. I'll just say, price being equal, I'd prefer a more musical 2.0 set (like the Swan M200 mentioned frequently at Ars and that's occasionally in stock at NewEgg for ~$200) over a more forceful 2.1 set. I value a full midrange more than boomy bass. The only reason I have my Logitech 2.1 set (Z-2200) is b/c it was super cheap at the time, but it defaults to a pronounced high and low end, with not much in between: fun for games and action flicks, not so much for anything else. Plus, it matched the pretty unique "metallic bronze" color of my Antec case.
I dunno, I'd be surprised if you couldn't get a pretty kick-ass Core 2 Duo setup together for around $700 before the external inputs and outputs. I think a C2D 6300 is ~$200, a MB maybe $150, 2x1GB RAM ~$200, a _quality_ PSU and case ~$150. I think you can transfer your copy of Windows. That's $700.
Gah, I guess that's before a video card, so you can toss in something affordable like a ~$100 7600GT for basic use, or move up to a ~$200 X1950Pro or the like for higher res and more AA, or just go whole hog for a GF8800GTX. Personally, I'd wait until January (supposed NDA lift date) to see how R600 compares to G80. You can get by just fine with a relatively cheap 7600GS or GT, which you can then resell for probably not much loss to move up to the enthusiast-class $300+ GPUs.
And that's assuming you want the creamy smoothness and generally superior gaming performance of a C2D. A single-core A64 may suffice.
Even so, sounds like you could afford a 24" widescreen LCD and some decent speakers with a $2k budget, and you can assume the monitor and speakers and probably case and PSU will last for a few upgrades. Still, as power-efficient as they tend to be compared to CRTs (I'm on a low-power kick, considering I spend much less time gaming than browsing, typing, etc), I have no idea if they're suitable for gaming for picky types like me (even watching HDTV, there's a difference in clarity b/w LCDs and plasmas when the scene pans). Again, BeHardware has a lot of great LCD reviews.
You know what'd be funny? If the exact same thing happened to my system, only I didn't even muck around inside, and my temps are fine. I shut it down, Windows Update started installing eight new patches, and I walked away. Now it doesn't seem to boot or even post, and the monitor detects nothing, though the fans and HD are spinning away. I'll try a spare AGP card I have lying around, maybe removing a RAM stick, and of course resetting the CMOS. Friggin' computers.
Sorry to hear that Pete. I hope you are up and running now. It's a bit ironic, because just as yours went down my computer came back to life. I checked the thermal compound and seated the HSF back on, reseated my ram, and video card, and it powered up - booting into windows.
So I am back to the original problem, a stutter every 5 seconds.
It was suggested that my P4 chip running at 69C was causing the stutter. Out of curiousity, I pulled the plug on the HSF to monitor any temperature change (using SpeedFan as the monitor). There was no change. I then tried running a passmark 3d test and the temperature bumped up to 70C once during the test, which last a few minutes. I am almost 100% sure the HSF is seated tight and correctly (with thermal compound). Throwing caution to the wind, I uncoupled the HSF from the chip to see if the temperature would rise. As I expected, it did rise up to 75C after about 30 seconds, at which time I clamped the HSF and the temperature almost immediately went back down to 69C.
Any comments, suggestions? ... other than being stupid and reckless
So I am back to the original problem, a stutter every 5 seconds.
It was suggested that my P4 chip running at 69C was causing the stutter. Out of curiousity, I pulled the plug on the HSF to monitor any temperature change (using SpeedFan as the monitor). There was no change. I then tried running a passmark 3d test and the temperature bumped up to 70C once during the test, which last a few minutes. I am almost 100% sure the HSF is seated tight and correctly (with thermal compound). Throwing caution to the wind, I uncoupled the HSF from the chip to see if the temperature would rise. As I expected, it did rise up to 75C after about 30 seconds, at which time I clamped the HSF and the temperature almost immediately went back down to 69C.
Any comments, suggestions? ... other than being stupid and reckless
{Sniping}Waste
Regular
Sorry to hear that Pete. I hope you are up and running now. It's a bit ironic, because just as yours went down my computer came back to life. I checked the thermal compound and seated the HSF back on, reseated my ram, and video card, and it powered up - booting into windows.
So I am back to the original problem, a stutter every 5 seconds.
It was suggested that my P4 chip running at 69C was causing the stutter. Out of curiousity, I pulled the plug on the HSF to monitor any temperature change (using SpeedFan as the monitor). There was no change. I then tried running a passmark 3d test and the temperature bumped up to 70C once during the test, which last a few minutes. I am almost 100% sure the HSF is seated tight and correctly (with thermal compound). Throwing caution to the wind, I uncoupled the HSF from the chip to see if the temperature would rise. As I expected, it did rise up to 75C after about 30 seconds, at which time I clamped the HSF and the temperature almost immediately went back down to 69C.
Any comments, suggestions? ... other than being stupid and reckless
How hot is the heat sink getting? 69C is too hot and it should be around 40C for idle and no more then 60C load. The heat sink should heat up and if its not then the heat from the CPU is not transfering to the heatsink.
What is the temp reading in CMOS (setup/BIOS)? In BIOS the load to the CPU should be around 70%.
I can try that, I have a hard drive with windows loaded on it from another machine.
I fail to understand why the cpu temp is so drastically different from BIOS and the SpeedFan reading. I really don't understand the SpeedFan readings, and wonder if it needs to be configured. See the SpeedFan image posted earlier in this thread for reference.
<EDIT> here is the image.
http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tempszv5.jpg
I fail to understand why the cpu temp is so drastically different from BIOS and the SpeedFan reading. I really don't understand the SpeedFan readings, and wonder if it needs to be configured. See the SpeedFan image posted earlier in this thread for reference.
<EDIT> here is the image.
http://img299.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tempszv5.jpg
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it could just be speedfan reading the wrong information. i would tend to believe your bios, personaly, but the overheating CPU does explain the symptoms you are having. i would try getting a second opinion from another temperature reading program.
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