PSU gone bad? computer keeps shutting off

[Moloch]

Not even doing anything intensive either- like be on internet and bam it shuts off.
It won't turn on either for a minute or so either.
The PSU doesn't feel hot to the touch?
Or maybe my mobo?

MSI neo4-f
A64 3200+
7800GT
2 512 sticks
enermax noisetaker atx 1.3 420W psu

 

[digitalwanderer]

Do you have any emergency shut down options in your BIOS? How often is it happening?

 

[Moloch]

Do you have any emergency shut down options in your BIOS? How often is it happening?

You mean like halt or thermal?
I don't have a thermal shutdown option but not to worry as temp isn't the problem (40C load).
It can happen within a few minutes or 5- 10 minutes.
edit- happened right now after a few minutes while watching an avi file in zoom player.
I had the system off for like 10 minutes so it couldn't possibly get hot in that time.

 

[Ken2012]

I'd certainly recommend swapping out your PSU. Also do the obvious stuff by checking all your cables are secure, reseat hardware connections etc...

btw are you using some sort of a surge protector?

 

[Moloch]

I'd certainly recommend swapping out your PSU. Also do the obvious stuff by checking all your cables are secure, reseat hardware connections etc...

btw are you using some sort of a surge protector?

Ya checked cables all good.
I'm running a prime95 test also.
it fails within a few seconds of the inplace large FFTs (max power output/ temp) but has been running the small FFts (max fpu stress) for 10 or so minutes.
edit- I take that back, I set my power saving mode to home/office and now it's been doin the large ffts.
or.. nm.. system just shut off.

I am running a surge protector, but the other items on it don't shut off.
I don't have a another PSU to swap out

 

[Ken2012]

Are all your fans working correctly? What are your chipset/GPU etc temps like? Have you monitored your 12V/3.3V/5V lines? Reset BIOS?... I'm sure you're aware of the usual troubleshooting precedures when one's PC is on the fritz in this manner, but at the end of the day you know you can pick up a *quality* PSU for quite an affordable price these days. That's what I'd be inclined to do if all else fails :smile:.

 

[Pete]

I'm going to throw out a lot of suggestions here and hope something sticks.

I guess you could uses MBM or Speedfan to check the PSU voltage levels your BIOS reports under load, but that can be very imperfect. I suggest it just in case there are wild voltage swings (you seem to have already checked temps). Otherwise, buy a $10 multimeter and check the PSU's rails (+12V, +5V, +3.3V) yourself. That's what I ended up doing when my PC starting flaking out on me, and it turned out it wasn't the PSU but rather wonky drivers.

Maybe try disabling C 'n Q, just to eliminate as many variables as possible (in this case, from the software side)? Or try reseating your CPU HSF, RAM, and check that the 7800GT's HSF is in working order? While you're down there, check that no caps have burst or are leaking, on both the MB and vid card.

The inability to restart for a minute seems to make faulty RAM less likely, but it probably wouldn't hurt to run MemTest overnight.

Or just put that $10 toward a new PSU? An ATX 1.3 unit might not take kindly to the +12V focus of your new MB and GPU.

 

[Moloch]

I'm going to throw out a lot of suggestions here and hope something sticks.

I guess you could uses MBM or Speedfan to check the PSU voltage levels your BIOS reports under load, but that can be very imperfect. I suggest it just in case there are wild voltage swings (you seem to have already checked temps). Otherwise, buy a $10 multimeter and check the PSU's rails (+12V, +5V, +3.3V) yourself. That's what I ended up doing when my PC starting flaking out on me, and it turned out it wasn't the PSU but rather wonky drivers.

Maybe try disabling C 'n Q, just to eliminate as many variables as possible (in this case, from the software side)? Or try reseating your CPU HSF, RAM, and check that the 7800GT's HSF is in working order? While you're down there, check that no caps have burst or are leaking, on both the MB and vid card.

The inability to restart for a minute seems to make faulty RAM less likely, but it probably wouldn't hurt to run MemTest overnight.

Or just put that $10 toward a new PSU? An ATX 1.3 unit might not take kindly to the +12V focus of your new MB and GPU.

Cool & quiet was disabled actually when it started screwing up but ill disable it.
Now it actually doesn't need a few minutes, I was able to turn it back on within 30 seconds.
As for voltage flucutes the cpu voltage flucates a bit, and it seems to be a quirk of the msi neo4-F mobo.
CPU temps and GPU temp are good, with the retail amd A64 HSF it's impossible to screw up mounting the HSF.. it uses a fool proof deal.
Kinda like the P4 I think- there's a whole bracket the HSF attaches to.
While I know my PSU is old (bought it last xmas from newegg) I figure with the dual 12V giving 15 and 14 amps respectivly it's good.
I just had to rob my self of two HDD power connectors to run the pci-e power adapter.
I would like a mulitimeter for some other things besides computers so I might get one of those.
my MB reports underload voltages of 1.44 for cpu with some flucuating to 1.39, 3.36, 5.11 for the 5v and 12.08V.

 

[Tim Murray]

Could be a short.

 

[Moloch]

Wll it's been workin ok since last night minus serious sam 2 rendering bug- the world is rendered at 640x480, the halth counter and stuff that isn't in the world is fine though.
It all started on the deadwood level, loading earlier levels works fine.

 

[Bahadir]

I would be inclined to say that the CPU is either overheating or the PS isnt giving enough juice to the motherboard and/or the video card. Sometimes CPU temperature monitoring tools do not give a good indication of the actual CPU temp. Try putting your finger need the side of the CPU heatsink while your running a game and see if it is getting hot. If its not, then your CPU is not transferring heat to your heatsink fan unit and that may be the problem.
I think the CPU voltage range should be limited to +/-5% of its rated voltage and the other stuff like the +3.3, +5, +12 rail should have a tolerance of +/-10%. Anything below that may cause the CPU to reset itself.

 

[Moloch]

I would be inclined to say that the CPU is either overheating or the PS isnt giving enough juice to the motherboard and/or the video card. Sometimes CPU temperature monitoring tools do not give a good indication of the actual CPU temp. Try putting your finger need the side of the CPU heatsink while your running a game and see if it is getting hot. If its not, then your CPU is not transferring heat to your heatsink fan unit and that may be the problem.
I think the CPU voltage range should be limited to +/-5% of its rated voltage and the other stuff like the +3.3, +5, +12 rail should have a tolerance of +/-10%. Anything below that may cause the CPU to reset itself.

The cpu temp is fine I assure you.
I've benchmarked 3dmark 06 at 2.2 ghz previously and the power cut outs occur while the cpu isn't being used instensivily and I can play serious sam 2 for hours no problem.
i'd like to blame the mobo

 

[Bahadir]

well thats an unusual problem then. Blame it on the mobo

 

[Moloch]

well thats an unusual problem then. Blame it on the mobo

well I've emailed the place I got it from asking them for how much it would be for them to throw some parts at it

 

[AlNom]

I've had similar issues with an older system; it was the motherboard. I think one of the caps went bye-bye.

 

[Moloch]

I've had similar issues with an older system; it was the motherboard. I think one of the caps went bye-bye.

this is brand new tho, though I am suspicious of the motherboard.
I had some issues with the IDE ports not detecting my hdds.
It also sets hdds/cdroms with no jumpers on them to slave, where as it should go to erm.. master.
Well once again while I as sleeping my system shut down.
always while I'm sleeping...

 

[KimB]

Did you check the caps? I know that one of the professors here in the Davis physics department had a bunch of computers that were shutting down on him, and it turned out the problem was capacitors that were busted and leaking.

A dead ringer for a leaking capacitor is usually that the capacitor is bent: the dielectric leaks out the bottom, pushing up one side of the capacitor.

Another thing to consider is the memory. I don't think it's likely, because in my experience bad memory just causes reboots, but I suppose it's possible. Try running the system with just one stick (try each).

 

[Moloch]

ya checked em just to be safe.
Physically the motheboard looks fine.
Well I can eliminate my old atx 1.3 PSU when I get a new case, I'd like to keep it, but it's old and robs me of two HDD power connectors for my pci-e videocard, it also is a 20 pin main power connector, where as my mobo is 24 pin, luckily it accepts 20 pin.
I about shat my pants when I noticed it was a 24 pin connector

 

[Pete]

my MB reports underload voltages of 1.44 for cpu with some flucuating to 1.39, 3.36, 5.11 for the 5v and 12.08V.

FYI (and just in case I didn't make myself clear), BIOS voltage readings are apparently notoriously inaccurate. You'll want a multimeter for figures you can trust. I was just curious if your MB readings showed any wild fluctuations on the various rails. I don't know how to interpret CPU voltage fluctuations. I have a pretty budget Asus nForce 1 MB (no OCing options whatsoever), and my CPU voltage never wavers according to the MB readings. My rail voltages do waver occasionally, so I'm trusting the CPU voltage reading to be correct in showing no V spikes or drops.

I don't know about a new PSU with a new case. If you want a quality PSU, I suggest buying it separately. Even Antec is having problems with bundled PSUs (the one in the P150, according to a couple reports I've read), and In-Win is making their own now (no longer rebadged Sparkle/Fortrons).

 

[MatiasZ]

[...]it also is a 20 pin main power connector, where as my mobo is 24 pin, luckily it accepts 20 pin.
I about shat my pants when I noticed it was a 24 pin connector

I have seen lot's of people advising NOT to use a 20pin power supply with a 24 pin MB, even if the MB support's it or through an adapter. I'm not saying this is your case, but it seems exactly like the kind of problem you could have from bad-not clean-not enough power to the mainboard circuitry (<-- that was tricky to spell )