My Raven 2 Water cooling build

I apologize if these are too big, or if too many.

The starting point.

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Empty case.



Case modified



Had to cut more from the back. In the previous picture the highest part at the rear is metal, in this one the dust filter casing is higher.



GTX 680 stock cooler removed

 
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The GPU is shiny:)



The Aquagrafx GPU full cover block installed.



180mm Air penetrator fans attached in to the radiator.



180mm Air penetrator fans attached in to the radiator 2.



Radiator is in the case. It was quite an annoying task and required several steps of further modifying the case.

 
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Fast forwarding a bit...

Basically done, case open.



Let there be light and there was :)



I booted the machine and CPU temps looked quite high in Bios. I went to windows and noticed that Real Temp only shows 3 cores and CPU id was also acting weird. GPU temps looked fine, but CPU was idling much higher than I expected and Prime 95 just sky rocketed the temps. I was pissed for a minute, then thought that perhaps I screwed up somehow with the thermal paste.

LOL this is embarrasing. I put the loop together and CPU block together quite early and forgot that frigging protection cover piece in there :oops: Turns out it doesn't transfer heat very well :) I thought by "remove" they meant "keep this in place at all cost" haha

 
Case closed!



I then did some temp testing everything at stock settings, although the GPU of course boosts and you can't even make this run much hotter, because voltage tweaking is not possible. Weird thing is that my GTX was boosting to 1175 with the stock cooler if it operated at under 70c. Now it only boosts to 1150Mhz with default settings although the temps are much lower. It is using lower voltage for that 1150Mhz though...



Prime 95 had ran little over an hour at the time of the pic and Furmark about 30 minutes at the end, I had ran 3dmark11 game test 2 looping prior to Furmark, so about 1 hour of pretty much maximum stress. All the case fans were on low setting during the testing. I'm not sure about the ambient temperature, not hot by any means, but windows and doors are closed.

Though the CPU is only at stock. I'm very happy with the results so far. The pump does make quite a bit of noise though... I'll see if I can do something about it, but next up is some overclocking!

It was a fun build and good learning experience. Had make some changes and did some mistakes, some things I would do differently now, but at least I didn't kill it :)
 
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That's a big radiator. What you gotta pay for a thing like that?

Also... LOL @ the label on the CPU block. Nub! :) Sorry, just kidding. I've done worse than that in my day!
 
That's a big radiator. What you gotta pay for a thing like that?

Also... LOL @ the label on the CPU block. Nub! :) Sorry, just kidding. I've done worse than that in my day!

It was 113 euros, only one maker does that size, but it's not that bad price considering the surface area.

Yeah I totally forgot about that protector piece. I had seen it few days before, but I just totally forgot it's existence as I had already attached the block in the loop. When I got the last missing pieces for my build, I just put thermal paste in to the CPU and didn't bother to look the underside of the block anymore.

I also have a pretty substantial history messing up with installing things. I once broke pins in Pentium 4 2.66Ghz chip when I tried to install it forcefully in incorrect position and the pins hit plastic. I also once tried to change spark plugs to my car, but I didn't know what they looked like and I first removed a fuel injector head, I quickly realised that wasn't it, but I dropped and lost an O-ring seal from it and only noticed it when I tried to turn the car on and fuel was flying in the air. It took me 2-3 days to find a replacement O-ring and turned out the problem never even was with the spark plugs.

Can you top that? :)

I did some OC'ing yesterday. I managed to get a 3Dmark11 run with the CPU at 5.1Ghz, the physics test is quite CPU intensive and needs somewhat staple setting. Gametests would pass with higher Mhz.

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/3570453 Crazy volts though...but not bad for a 1366 platform.

1.3V at bios seems to be enough for 4.5Ghz, shows as 1.32v in CPU Z though...?
I just dropped in 180 base clock with 25 multiplier and it worked, so it's not really optimized or I got lucky with first try.

The GPU is really quite efficient and runs cool, it's hard to get it up to 40c. The CPU will get much hotter under these OC'd volts. I'll do another Prime + Furmark run with OC'd everything and I'll see where I'm at.

edit:

The CPU does get quite hot after one hour Prime + Furmark. The ambient temperature in my small apartment does rise quite a lot due to computer, receiver and projector being quite close to each other. The GPU was hovering between 41-43 at the highest, but max CPU cores were at 67-73c.



When I open a small window in the kitchen, the temps already dropped quite a bit.



After few minutes from opening the balcony door and fans on high.



Idle a min or two after I stopped Prime and Furmark.



The GPU boost function continues to act a bit weird for me. It changed the clock steppings mid test and some other weird stuff.
 
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It was 113 euros, only one maker does that size, but it's not that bad price considering the surface area.
I'd say that's not a bad price at all, that's a biiig radiator! Crikey... Of course, you can't manage with a radiator alone; you need more pieces to make the whole thing work and costs quickly add up. Still, that's a beastly rad. I want one myself! :D

When I got the last missing pieces for my build, I just put thermal paste in to the CPU and didn't bother to look the underside of the block anymore.
That's what I figured had to have happened...

I also have a pretty substantial history messing up with installing things. I once broke pins in Pentium 4 2.66Ghz chip when I tried to install it forcefully in incorrect position and the pins hit plastic.
Ooowwwchhh! Not sure how you managed that, considering the CPU just drops right in if you simply align the pins correctly. ;)

I have on the other hand managed to bend a few of the tiny little metal finger contacts in a LGA socket, can't remember the pin count. Those for the Core2 Duo generation of CPUs. I was cleaning off old thermal interface material - those rubbery pads that come on some coolers - from my monstrous Dell XPS box when the tissue paper I was using strayed and got caught in the contacts of the socket. Shit they're small! It's really hard to see with the naked eye which way they're bent if you don't have a jeweler's loupe or magnifying glass or something like that, which I didn't of course.

Managed to get 'em poked back down again, and none of them broke, thankfully. Those Dells use custom mobos of course that cost a ton to replace. The computer still worked when I turned it back on.

I also once tried to change spark plugs to my car, but I didn't know what they looked like and I first removed a fuel injector head < ... >
Can you top that? :)
Hell, no. :LOL: I can't!

I can't fix cars, and I wouldn't even try, but I do know what a spark plug looks like at least. I bet you do now, too! ;)

I did some OC'ing yesterday. I managed to get a 3Dmark11 run with the CPU at 5.1Ghz
Holy crap, that's not a typo? 5.1??? What kind of volts you gotta torture the CPU with to get it way up there?

The GPU is really quite efficient and runs cool, it's hard to get it up to 40c. The CPU will get much hotter under these OC'd volts.
Hummm... Your OC CPU temps really do look quite high, much higher than I usually see quoted with water cooling. Is your CPU block a good one?

I suppose the CPU heatspreader might be a limiting factor here, the GPU is direct contact on its block after all.

The ambient temperature in my small apartment does rise quite a lot due to computer, receiver and projector being quite close to each other.
You have a projector? Ugh, that's nothing but a furnace in disguise, especially now during the summers. And us Euros rarely have air condition either. Ambient temps is the bane for me summertime, I can hit 30C indoors after a long gaming session during the hottest part of the summer.

The GPU boost function continues to act a bit weird for me. It changed the clock steppings mid test and some other weird stuff.
I believe you can turn boost off completely and just run at the boost setting all the time (or whatever you clock it to), isn't that so?

Anyway, nice setup! Good luck for the future, and don't fry any of your components please! :D
 
I'd say that's not a bad price at all, that's a biiig radiator! Crikey... Of course, you can't manage with a radiator alone; you need more pieces to make the whole thing work and costs quickly add up. Still, that's a beastly rad. I want one myself! :D

Yup I can verify added costs :) The GPU block was quite expensive already, pump + reservoir wasn't free either + the CPU...


Ooowwwchhh! Not sure how you managed that, considering the CPU just drops right in if you simply align the pins correctly. ;)

I manage things others can only dream of! :) That was quite a long time ago and I guess I didn't know it only fits one way or something as retarded hehe.

Holy crap, that's not a typo? 5.1??? What kind of volts you gotta torture the CPU with to get it way up there?

Hummm... Your OC CPU temps really do look quite high, much higher than I usually see quoted with water cooling. Is your CPU block a good one?

I suppose the CPU heatspreader might be a limiting factor here, the GPU is direct contact on its block after all.

Yeah not a typo, the link had the clock verified :) It's not exceptional or anything like that, but I'm happy with it. Gametests were ok with 5.2Ghz, but the more CPU demanding physics tests killed it. Volts were pretty high, about 1.55v, It can take it for a little while, at least it's still alive. The heat load from Prime95 and Furmark is quite a high and I think it just points out that my loop is starting to struggle a bit with it. Even though the radiator has a large surface area and the three fans are big it's still not an optimum setup by any means for such a load. Those aren't really the greatest radiator fans and it would help to have some more fans pulling heat from the rad. Typical gaming or even benchmarking loads don't create as huge thermal load though. I think Mize's GPU's and CPU would destroy my loop pretty bad. Two 580's doing Furmark and a CPU doing Prime is more than my setup could handle. My goal here wasn't to build the greatest loop, but to make my Raven case even better, It has clear limitations.

If I only run Prime the temps are much lower of course, but with GPU running furmark over 100 % power target things change a bit. Opening a window or turning on the AC does solve that pretty good though.

You have a projector? Ugh, that's nothing but a furnace in disguise, especially now during the summers. And us Euros rarely have air condition either. Ambient temps is the bane for me summertime, I can hit 30C indoors after a long gaming session during the hottest part of the summer.

Yeah it does run quite hot and the receiver uses quite a bit of power also. My apartment get's absolutely ridiculous thermal load during the summer. My side of the building is towards the west and the sun is up till almost 23pm at midsummer and I live on the 12th floor, so it till shines over the trees when the ground level is already in the shade. The huge building wall absorbs heat like a mofo and few years ago I bought a portable AC unit when the summer was especially hot. I just couldn't deal with it anymore. It's not in my apartment yet though as I store it in our buildings storage space area during the colder periods.


I believe you can turn boost off completely and just run at the boost setting all the time (or whatever you clock it to), isn't that so?

Anyway, nice setup! Good luck for the future, and don't fry any of your components please! :D

I don't think you can turn the boost off, however most of the time it does actually run at the max level. My card is acting weird, because before I installed the water block it actually boosted higher with stock settings or with any given off set setting. Now my card doesn't use the highest level of the default volt range 1.175v unless I force it, when as in the past it pretty much defaulted to 1.175, unless I restricted it. I did change the Water block and of course changed the thermal paste and thermal gum or whatever that is called, so I don't know if that somehow affected things. I've heard it might be a driver issue, but doing a clean install didn't help me.

On my test today it did boost to higher level for a moment, but once I changed some settings I haven't been able to get that higher boost back. Even when I manually raise the volts to 1.175 I can't quite use the same clocks in 3dMark11, so lower temps don't do any good there.

Thanks for the comment, it was nice building something for a change.
 
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Very nice build, especially for a first.
With my dual rad 580 SLI, the CPU (2600k) never gets above 50 but the GPUs (running at 850) break 60.

Looks great though Dr. Evil. Very clean.
 
Thanks! I'll be happy with this for now, but I'm sure in the future I'll build a less compromised build into a bigger or custom case.
 
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