Surge Protectors or Automatic Voltage Regulators

[Refreshment]

If you are looking for serious protection, i recommend http://www.transtector.com/ - while the costs are high, their tech is damn good, and it really does work. They have consumer-line parts as well as pro - http://www.transtector.com/productde...em=1102-007-1A is an 8-plug surge suppressor.

I was looking at that surge protector: http://www.transtector.com/productde...em=1102-007-1A
They don't have a price listed in that page. Where do i check the price?

Also i checked some online stores, they don't seem to have Transtector products available.

As of right now considering this as my option for surge protection:

Belkin BE112234-10 >
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-12-Out...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1220096812&sr=8-1

The thing is i don't know if it uses the "silicon avalanche diodes" that Althornin mentions. Even checked the manufacturer page, but couldn't find anything.

 

[Althornin]

For transtector prices, you've got to call or email, they'll put you in touch with a sales rep. Kinda a pain in the ass, but they are happy to deal with individuals, and it can actually be helpful.

The part you mention costs $100 - I got a quote for it recently. As i said, pricey.

Also, if they don't say what they are using, its almost a guarantee they are using MOVs - nothing really wrong with MOVs, they do work. Its more that when you open up most cheap surge suppressors, you find only a couple MOVs instead of a large array of them.

I don't really know if the transtector stuff is worth the premium. I do know that I am considering their "whole house" protection unit (goes inbetween your breaker box and main power in, so you have to have a certified electrician install it - parts costs about $750, install about $250).

 

[Ty]

I think other decent brands include:

• http://www.brickwall.com/
• http://www.zerosurge.com/residential.html
• Various Furman models

But they are pricey.

 

[Mize]

Also, MOVs and all surge suppressors have a finite lifetime - the transorbs/MOVs are damaged with each surge and slowly degrade...old surge suppressors don't work.

 

[Althornin]

Also, MOVs and all surge suppressors have a finite lifetime - the transorbs/MOVs are damaged with each surge and slowly degrade...old surge suppressors don't work.

That is true of MOVs, but avalanche diodes do not degrade with each surge (unless the current flow is enough to cause a catastrophic failure, which can happen)

 

[Ty]

Also, MOVs and all surge suppressors have a finite lifetime - the transorbs/MOVs are damaged with each surge and slowly degrade...old surge suppressors don't work.

The worst part about these is that they normally fail silently.

The companies I listed above, don't use MOVs AFAIK.

 

[karlotta]

Thanks a lot for the replies



Did a little research and it says that i need a 6' copper bar/rod. The hardware stores i've called only have (according to them) bronze or brass rods. Will they work the same?

And any tips before i electrocute myself (j/k)?

Any conductive metal rod is fine, most use Alu now in the USA. 6ft/2meters, get a heavy hammer

 

[Davros]

what do you do, just sink it into the ground and conect your earth wire to it ?

 

[Refreshment]

Lots of good advice. I'm glad

Any conductive metal rod is fine, most use Alu now in the USA. 6ft/2meters, get a heavy hammer

Thanks for the clarification Karlotta. Couldn't get the 6 ft depth since there's a solid rock layer all over the terrain like at 3+ ft, if i kept hammering the rod it would shatter.
The good news is that the metal case doesn't get electrified anymore, but i don't posses the equipment to tell if the resistance values are at the recommended range.

The bad news is that the power supply cable still melts or overheats. Has been raining these days. I wonder if its my generic power supply the one causing the problems ?

what do you do, just sink it into the ground and connect your earth wire to it ?

That is the simple physical earth. A wired connected to the metal rod earthed 6 ft into the ground. The soil should be prepared in some way to maximize conductivity. The other end of the cable is attached to the ground pin in the outlet.